Telangana360

Badshahi Ashoorkhana

August 20, 2023 ·
Badshahi Ashurkhana (Badshahi Ashoorkhana / Alawa-E-Sartouq Mubarak) – a magnificent Shia Muslim congregation hall for Muharram mourning, located near Charminar in Hyderabad, Telangana. Originally built as Dar-ul-Shifa (hospital) by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 (the same year as Charminar and Mecca Masjid), it was converted into an ashoorkhana in 1594 after the king installed a holy relic (tauq) into an Alam. The building’s interior walls are covered with brilliant haft‑rang (seven‑colour) enamel tile mosaics completed in 1611 under Abdullah Qutb Shah – described by art historians George Michell and Mark Zebrowski as “one of the most original decorative schemes of its kind anywhere in the Muslim world.” Despite later use as a horse stable (under Aurangzeb) and severe damage in the 1908 Musi floods, the tiles have survived. Today, the ashoorkhana is a protected heritage monument, with restoration by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture planned under a 2023 MoU.
Built 1591 (Dar-ul-Shifa) Ashoorkhana since 1594 Tile mosaic completed 1611 Haft‑rang (7 colours) Lapis blue & white tiles Near Charminar 10,000+ visitors during Muharram

A hospital that became a house of mourning. When Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah founded Hyderabad in 1591, he built not only the Charminar but also a grand hospital called Dar-ul-Shifa (“house of health”) overlooking the Musi River. Three years later, he received a holy relic (tauq) associated with Imam Hussain and ordered it to be incorporated into an Alam (ceremonial standard) and installed in the former hospital, transforming it into an ashoorkhana – a public space for Shia Muslims to mourn the martyrdom of Imam Hussain at Karbala. The building thus became Alawa-E-Sartouq Mubarak, one of the holiest sites for Hyderabad’s Shia community.

The tile masterwork of the Deccan. In 1611, under Abdullah Qutb Shah, the interior walls were clad in haft‑rang (seven‑colour) enamelled tiles – lapis blue, white, mustard yellow, terracotta, green, and others. The mosaic panels, nearly 3 metres high, depict Islamic standards (alam), bold calligraphy (including mirror‑reverse Arabic script), staggered hexagons, arabesque swirls, and a “pot of plenty” with vegetation. As Michell and Zebrowski note, this is among the most original decorative schemes in the Muslim world. The tiles survived being submerged in six feet of water during the 1908 Musi floods and the building’s later neglect as a horse stable under Aurangzeb. Today, they remain a breathtaking testament to Qutb Shahi artistry.

1591
Built as Dar-ul-Shifa
1594
Converted to Ashoorkhana
1611
Tile mosaic completed
1,500
Visitors every Thursday
10,000+
During first 10 days of Muharram
1908
Musi flood submerged tiles
2023
MoU with Aga Khan Trust
Free entry
Open to all

Timeline of a Living Monument

  • 1591: Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah builds Dar-ul-Shifa (hospital) near the Musi River, along with Charminar and Mecca Masjid.
  • 1594: The king installs a holy relic (tauq) into an Alam and converts the building into an ashoorkhana – named Alawa-E-Sartouq Mubarak.
  • 1611: Abdullah Qutb Shah completes the spectacular haft‑rang tile mosaic decoration.
  • c. 1764 (1178 Hijri): After Aurangzeb’s conquest, the building is converted into a bandikhana (horse stable) for 80 years.
  • c. 1844: Mir Nawazish Ali Khan restores it as a place of worship.
  • 1908: Great Musi flood submerges the ashoorkhana in 6 feet of water; tiles are damaged but later repaired and repainted. Eight wooden pillars are reconstructed, and the main entrance Bab-e-Faiz-e-Imam-e-Alamiyan is added.
  • 2011: High Court orders removal of encroachments.
  • 2012: Central government grants ₹80 lakh for restoration.
  • 2015: A portion of the building collapses, highlighting urgent need for structural work.
  • 2021: Heritage Department secures the monument and plans repairs.
  • 2023: Telangana government signs MoU with Aga Khan Trust for Culture to restore Badshahi Ashurkhana, Shaikpet Sarai, and Saidanima’s tomb.

Architectural & Artistic Highlights

Haft‑Rang Tile Mosaics (1611)
The interior walls are covered with seven‑colour enamelled tiles – lapis blue, white, mustard yellow, warm terracotta, green. Panels feature alams (standards), mirror‑reverse Arabic calligraphy, hexagons, arabesques, and a “pot of plenty”. Described as one of the most original decorative schemes in the Islamic world.
Wooden Facade & Arched Hall
The front aisle is made entirely of wood, as are the panelling of the flanking walls and the façade. The high ceiling gives the building a magnificent, airy feel.
Kaman, Naqqar Khana & Niyaz Khana
Traditional components of an ashoorkhana: arched gateway, drum room (where ceremonial drums are beaten), and dining hall where visitors are fed during Muharram.
Sarai Khana & Abdar Khana
Resting rooms for pilgrims and a water storehouse (where drinking water is kept and distributed). These structures are now in various stages of dilapidation.
Brass Alams (post‑Qutb Shahi)
During Muharram, impressive brass alams decorated with Thuluth script are brought out and installed. The original gold alams studded with jewels mentioned in Qutb Shahi chronicles no longer exist.
Bab-e-Faiz-e-Imam-e-Alamiyan (1908)
The main entrance was constructed after the 1908 floods, giving the ashoorkhana its present street‑facing gate.
Chabutra (Platform) & Guard Room
A raised platform used for rituals and a room for the caretakers – part of the original Qutb Shahi layout.
Healing Tradition – “Shifa” Water
Even today, hundreds of devotees visit on Thursdays to drink water from the ashoorkhana, believing it to be beneficial for health – a remnant of its origin as a hospital.

Spiritual Importance: Muharram & Thursday Gatherings

The ashoorkhana is a focal point for Hyderabad’s Shia community. Every Thursday, about 1,500 devotees visit to offer prayers, drink the blessed water, and seek intercession. During Muharram (the first 10 days of the Islamic month), the ashoorkhana is kept open round the clock, and over 10,000 people visit each day. The alams are displayed, majalis (sermons) are held, and matam (ritual mourning) is performed. The caretaker, Mir Abbas Ali Moosavi, has struggled with encroachments and political interference, but the site remains deeply venerated.

Nearby Landmarks in Old Hyderabad

Charminar (200 m): The iconic monument of Hyderabad, built in 1591 by the same king.
Mecca Masjid (300 m): One of India’s largest mosques, also built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah.
Laad Bazaar (200 m): Famous for bangles, pearls, and traditional Hyderabadi attire.
Nizam’s Museum (Purani Haveli, ≈3 km): Showcasing Nizam-era artefacts.
Salar Jung Museum (≈2 km): World‑renowned museum with art and antiques.
Chowmahalla Palace (≈1.5 km): The former seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty.

Heritage Itinerary (Half‑Day in Old City)

Morning – Ashoorkhana & Charminar Circuit

  • 9:00 AM: Start at Badshahi Ashurkhana (near Charminar). Spend 45 minutes studying the tile mosaics, wooden facade, and the history panels.
  • 10:00 AM: Walk to Charminar (5 min). Climb the minarets (limited access) and explore the surrounding market.
  • 11:00 AM: Visit Mecca Masjid – observe the grand prayer hall and the large pond.
  • 12:30 PM: Lunch at a traditional Hyderabadi restaurant near Madina Circle.

Afternoon – Palaces & Museums

  • 2:00 PM: Visit Chowmahalla Palace – the magnificent courtyard and Durbar Hall.
  • 3:30 PM: Salar Jung Museum (closed on Fridays) – allow 2 hours.
  • 6:00 PM: Return to the ashoorkhana if it’s a Thursday – witness the evening crowd and the healing water ritual.

Visitor Information – Badshahi Ashurkhana

Timings & Entry

Visiting hours: Open daily from 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM (may close for afternoon prayers; check locally). During Muharram (first 10 days), open 24 hours.
Entry fee: Free (donations welcome).
Best time to visit: Thursday morning or afternoon (to see the crowds and healing water ritual) or during Muharram for the full spiritual atmosphere.
Photography: Allowed inside but be respectful; no flash in the tile mosaic area (light damages pigments).

Location & Access

Address: Near Madina Circle, Charminar Road, Hyderabad, Telangana – 500002. (Just a few minutes’ walk from Charminar towards the Musi river side).
Public transport: Buses, autos, and cabs from anywhere in Hyderabad to Charminar; the ashoorkhana is inside the lane opposite the Madina building.
Parking: Available at Charminar parking lots (paid); walk from there.

Facilities & Restoration Efforts

Available Facilities

  • Basic washroom (outside).
  • Drinking water (the abdar khana still functions, especially on Thursdays).
  • Small seating area in the courtyard.
  • Caretaker on site during visiting hours.
  • No food/souvenir shop – nearby Charminar bazaars have everything.

Restoration Timeline & Challenges

2011: High Court ordered encroachment removal.
2012: ₹80 lakh central grant for restoration.
2015: Portion of building collapsed.
2021: Heritage Department secured monument, prepared repairs.
2023: MoU with Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) for expert restoration. The ashoorkhana will be restored along with Shaikpet Sarai and Saidanima’s tomb. Currently, parts of the structure remain fragile; visitors are asked to be careful.

⚠️ Conservation note: The tile mosaics are original from 1611 but are fragile. Do not touch them. Also, the building has suffered from political interference and encroachment issues. The caretaker, Mir Abbas Ali Moosavi, has been struggling with renovations. Respect the space as an active place of worship.

Travel Tips for Visitors

Dress modestly – cover shoulders and knees; women should carry a scarf Remove footwear before entering the main hall (shoe rack available) Do not touch the tile mosaics – they are 400+ years old and fragile Visit on Thursday to witness the healing water ritual and larger crowds During Muharram (first 10 days of Islamic month of Muharram), expect large crowds and heightened emotion – be respectful Photography is allowed, but avoid using flash and do not photograph people in mourning without permission Combine with Charminar, Mecca Masjid, and Chowmahalla Palace for a full heritage walk Carry water and wear comfortable walking shoes – the Old City involves a lot of walking

📿 Insider tip: The best view of the tile mosaics is in the late afternoon when natural light streams through the wooden grilles. Look for the mirror‑reverse Arabic calligraphy on one of the panels – it spells “Ali” in a unique way. Also, ask the caretaker to show you the abdar khana where water is still distributed. If you are fortunate, you might hear the naqqar (drum) beaten on a Thursday afternoon – a tradition dating back to the Qutb Shahi era.

A Unique Gem of Deccan Shia Heritage

The Badshahi Ashurkhana is not just a monument – it is a living, breathing centre of faith, art, and history. From its origin as a hospital built by Hyderabad’s founder to its transformation into a house of mourning, and from the unparalleled tile mosaics of 1611 to the planned restoration by the Aga Khan Trust, this site encapsulates the layered soul of the city. Whether you are an art historian, a devotee, or a curious traveller, a visit here will leave you in awe of the Deccan’s rich Islamic heritage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the ashoorkhana open to non‑Muslims?
Yes, non‑Muslims are welcome. Please be respectful, especially during Muharram.

Is there any entry fee?
No, entry is free.

Can I take photos of the tiles?
Yes, but no flash. The tiles are sensitive to strong light.

What is the best time to see the tile mosaics?
Late afternoon (around 4:00–5:30 PM) when the light enters the hall diagonally.

Is the building safe to enter?
Yes, the main hall is structurally sound. However, some outer structures (sarai, guard rooms) are dilapidated – avoid entering them.

How long should I spend?
30–45 minutes for the ashoorkhana. Add 15 minutes for the surrounding lane and Madina Circle.

Is the restoration complete?
No, as of 2025, the MoU with AKTC has been signed, but active restoration may be in progress. Some scaffolding might be visible.

References & Further Reading

Badshahi Ashurkhana – Where 17th‑century tiles tell the story of Karbala, and a hospital’s water still heals.

© Telangana360. Powered by Blogger.