Keslapur Nagoba Jatara
Second Largest Tribal Carnival | Mesaram Clan of Gonds | 10-day Serpent Festival
Where the serpent god calls his children home. The Keslapur Nagoba Jatara is the second biggest tribal festival in Telangana, after Sammakka Saralamma Jatara. For ten days every winter, the remote village of Keslapur transforms into a massive congregation of the Mesaram clan of Raj Gonds and Pardhan bards. Pilgrims arrive in bullock carts, walking barefoot through forests, to honour Nagoba — the clan’s progenitor believed to be Sheshnag, the cosmic serpent.
What makes this festival extraordinary is its unbroken continuity: rituals have been preserved for centuries, including a 90-kilometre barefoot pilgrimage to fetch holy water from the Godavari river using a 1,400-year-old brass vessel (jhari). The festival reinforces kinship, resolves disputes, welcomes new brides into the clan, and mourns the departed — all under the sacred banyan tree (Bhourmachua).
Legend of Nagoba – The Serpent Progenitor
Nagoba is Sheshnag, the serpent god, also known as Sri Shek — the mul-purush (progenitor) of the Buiguita branch of the Mesaram Raj Gonds and Pardhans. According to legend, Nagoba descended to Keslapur to punish King Padiyor for his misdeeds. The king was appeased only after the Mesaram Raj Gonds offered naivedyam of seven varieties. The annual festival re-enacts this reconciliation, with prayers and offerings to pacify the serpent god.
Mesaram Manohar, a Pardhan elder who has attended the jatara every year since 1976, explains: "The Nagoba festival ensures that all Mesaram clan members gather at Keslapur at least once every year, strengthening ties within the community."
The Sacred Walk – Fetching Godavari Water
Fifteen days before the main puja, a team led by the clan katoda (chief priest) and the chief Pardhan sets out on a 90 km barefoot journey to Hastinamadugu (near Kalamadugu village, Jannaram mandal, Mancherial district) on the Godavari river. They carry the ancient brass jhari (sacred vessel) said to be 1,400 years old. The pilgrims walk in a single file, mimicking the movement of a snake, ensuring no man or animal crosses their path — considered inauspicious.
Mesram Tirupathi, the kotwal of the festival, explains: "We walk in a single line through forests and difficult paths. The Pardhan (bard) leads us because in the legend he is responsible for pacifying Nagoba." After a dip in the Godavari and community lunch, they return with the holy water, which is later used to purify the Nagoba temple sanctum.
Core Rituals – Bheting, Toom, and the Darbar
Bheting (Introduction of brides): The most significant ritual. Newly married women (brides) who joined Mesaram families during the past year are dressed in white and brought in a solemn procession to the Nagoba temple. They are introduced to the serpent god, making them eligible to pray to the clan deity. If a bride is unwell or a family member has died recently, she must wait another year.
Toom (Remembrance of the departed): For each deceased member of the Mesaram clan in the previous year, a Toom ritual is performed. In some years, up to 70 Tooms take place, honouring the dead and seeking blessings for their souls.
Betal puja and Mandagajiling: Held on the last day, these rituals recall the Gonds’ warrior antecedents and bid farewell to the pilgrims, marking the end of the jatara.
The Tribal Darbar – A Legacy of Haimendorf
On the third day of the jatara, a tribal darbar (court) is held where government officials and administrators listen to the grievances of the Adivasis — land rights, forest issues, and social concerns. This tradition was introduced in 1944 by the renowned Austrian anthropologist Christoph von Fürer-Haimendorf, who studied the Gonds of Adilabad. He aimed to strengthen the Gond panchayat system led by the Mokashi (Raja). Today, the darbar remains a peaceful and effective platform for justice and dialogue.
Under the Sacred Banyan – Bhourmachua Camp
Pilgrims camp under the ancient banyan tree called Bhourmachua at the entrance of Keslapur. Bullock carts serve as temporary homes, with families arranging all essentials for the 5–10 day stay. Women prepare meals, children play, and men discuss community matters. The nights are reserved for Nagoba Bhidi — the oral recitation of the serpent god’s legend by Pardhan bards, accompanied by the 200-year-old kingri (bow-string instrument) and drums. These sessions, around campfires, create a mystical atmosphere that has continued for centuries.
Gondi Ramayan and Gondi Mahabharat performances are also staged by folk theatre troupes, keeping the audience riveted until early morning.
Bullock cart pilgrimage
Despite modern transport, pilgrims arrive in bullock carts (chakda) — a 10-day journey for many. The katoda and chief Pardhan still travel by bullock cart to invite 22 key families, preserving ancient custom.
Earthen pots from Sirikonda
120 special earthen pots and lamps are ordered from the Guggilla potter family, who have served the Mesrams for centuries. Women carry these pots to fetch water from a sacred well.
Torch bearers (Bhairava)
Village elders (Patels) light sacred torches that remain lit throughout the jatara. The flickering flames illuminate processions and rituals, symbolising the presence of ancestral warriors.
The Govad and Koriad
A circular open-air structure called govad is built for women and the bheti koriad (daughters-in-law). Here, brides are prepared for the bheting ceremony at midnight.
Witness the Festival – Traveler’s Guide
When to go
Pushya masam (December–January). Exact dates vary with lunar calendar. The main rituals (Bheting, Mahapuja, Darbar) occur over 5–6 days around the full moon period. Contact Adilabad district tribal welfare office for yearly schedule.
How to reach
Nearest airport: Hyderabad (280 km). Railway: Adilabad (approx 80 km) or Mancherial (70 km). Road: TSRTC buses from Hyderabad to Adilabad, then local buses/taxis to Keslapur (Inderavelly mandal).
Where to stay
Very basic accommodation in Keslapur (community shelters). Better to stay in Adilabad town or Mancherial and travel daily (approx 1.5–2 hrs). Some homestays available with prior arrangement through Telangana Tourism.
What to expect
Large crowds (10,000+), bullock carts, traditional stalls, folk performances, and a carnival atmosphere around the temple. Night temperatures can drop (5–10°C), so carry warm clothing. The rituals are solemn — maintain respectful silence during prayers.
Photography & conduct
Always ask permission before photographing individuals, especially during Bheting and Toom rituals. Do not disturb the jhari (holy water vessel) or touch the sacred torches. Avoid alcohol and non-vegetarian food near the temple precincts.
Explore the Adilabad – Tribal Circuit
Frequently Asked Questions
Who can attend the Nagoba Jatara?
The festival is open to all, though it is primarily a Mesaram clan event. Visitors from outside the tribe are welcome, but should observe local customs and seek permission before entering sacred areas.
Why do pilgrims walk barefoot for 90 km?
The barefoot walk is a vow of penance and devotion, emulating the serpent’s movement and showing humility before Nagoba. It has been performed for centuries without change.
What is the significance of the banyan tree (Bhourmachua)?
It is the traditional resting place of Nagoba and the camping ground for pilgrims. Rituals begin and end under its shade, and the sacred torches are lit here.
How are new brides introduced (Bheting)?
Brides dressed in white, with heads covered, are led in a procession to the Sathi temple first, then to the Nagoba temple, where the clan god accepts them. Without Bheting, a bride cannot offer prayers at the temple.
Is the festival only for Raj Gonds?
Primarily for the Mesaram sub-clan of Raj Gonds and their Pardhan bards. However, other Gond clans and Adivasis from neighbouring states also pay respects, as Nagoba is revered across tribal communities.
Can I buy traditional artifacts at the jatara?
Yes, many vendors sell brass utensils, earthen lamps, tribal jewelry, and crafts. However, the sacred items (jhari, kingri) are not for sale.
References & More Information
- Keslapur Nagoba Jatara – Floats the Boat (detailed two-part account)
- Wikipedia – Nagoba Jatara
- The Hindu – Nagoba Jatara: Adivasis stream into Keslapur
- Telangana Tourism – Tribal Festivals
- Ethnographic works by Christoph von Fürer-Haimendorf (The Gonds of Andhra Pradesh)
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