Mahastupa, Apsidal Chaityas, Paribhogika Relic Casket & Ikshvaku Inscriptions (3rd c. BCE – 4th c. CE)
Phanigiri (Sanskrit: Phani = snake, Giri = hill) is a village in Tirumalagiri mandal, Suryapet district, Telangana, about 52 km from Nalgonda. The hill on the northern side resembles a snake’s hood, giving the site its name. Phanigiri is one of the most significant Buddhist centres in the Deccan, spreading over 16 acres atop a hill. Excavations have revealed a Mahastupa (Paribhogika stupa containing a silver relic casket), two apsidal chaityagrihas (prayer halls), three viharas, a stone‑pillared congregation hall, and sculptured panels depicting Jataka tales. Rare Brahmi label inscriptions from the Satavahana and Ikshvaku dynasties, a Roman gold coin of Nero Caesar, and a unique potin coin of Mahakshtrapa with a ship motif have been discovered. The site was active from the 3rd century BCE to the 4th century CE and represents a complete Buddhist monastic university.
The earliest phase of the Mahastupa dates to the Mauryan period (c. 3rd century BCE), likely connected to Emperor Ashoka’s distribution of relics after the Kalinga War. Phanigiri is considered a Paribhogika stupa — one containing the personal belongings of the Buddha or a great monk, rather than bodily relics. This is confirmed by the 2015 discovery of a silver casket containing meditation beads and gold/silver flower petals.
The great stupa was enlarged and refurbished under the Satavahanas (1st–2nd c. CE) and again under the Ikshvakus (3rd c. CE). The Ikshvaku period added the apsidal chaityas, the pillared congregation hall, and elaborate limestone relief panels. The site’s ancient name was Dharmachakrapuram (City of the Wheel of Dharma), as recorded in inscriptions. Phanigiri’s strategic location near the trade route between the Krishna valley and the east coast made it a prosperous monastic hub.
The Mahastupa is a large hemispherical brick dome (anda) on a circular drum (medhi) with a diameter of about 25 metres. A lime‑concrete circumambulatory path (pradakshinapatha) surrounds the drum. The stupa originally had four torana gateways at the cardinal points and was faced with carved limestone slabs. In 2015, a remarkable relic casket was found at the north‑eastern corner: a red‑ware pot containing a silver container with 11 miniature beads (a meditation mala), three silver flower petals, and three gold flower petals. This confirms it as a Paribhogika stupa — holding the personal effects of a venerated monk.
Two apsidal chaityagrihas have been excavated — a unique feature in Telangana. Each has a semi‑circular rear end and a rectangular nave, with a small brick stupa at the apsidal centre as the focal point. The larger chaitya measures about 20 m in length. These structural chaityas are an intermediate form between rock‑cut chaityas (KarlΔ, Bhaja) and later free‑standing temples. They had wooden roofs (now lost) and were used for congregational worship.
Three viharas (monastic residences) were found, each with a rectangular courtyard surrounded by small cells (kutis) measuring ~2.5 m × 2.5 m, with raised platforms for sleeping. A separate stone‑pillared congregation hall features square granite pillars arranged in rows — an early example of a free‑standing pillared hall in the Deccan. The total monastic community likely numbered 50–100 monks.
Several carved limestone slabs have been recovered, including scenes from the Vessantara Jataka (Prince Vessantara offering his white elephant) and the Shama Jataka (a story of filial piety). The style follows the Ikshvaku‑Amaravati idiom: slender, elegant figures with flowing drapery in low relief. Stucco images of Buddha and Bodhisattvas were also found, indicating a tradition of modelled plaster sculpture similar to Nagarjunakonda.
The site yielded several Brahmi label inscriptions naming donors: monks (“Dhamagirinika” from Dharmagiri), lay followers (“Gamikasa”), nuns (“Budhaghosha”), and a “navakammika” (master builder / superintendent of works). These inscriptions, dating to the 1st–3rd centuries CE, provide invaluable evidence of Buddhist patronage networks in the Deccan.
One of the most spectacular finds is a Roman gold aureus of Nero Caesar, weighing approx. 7.3 g. The obverse bears Nero’s bust, the reverse a standing figure (probably Roma). This coin is direct evidence of Phanigiri’s participation in the Indo‑Roman trade network — Roman gold flowed into the Deccan in exchange for spices, pearls, and textiles. Its presence in a Buddhist monastery suggests that wealthy merchants used the site as a centre for donations and banking.
A unique potin coin (copper‑lead alloy), 1.5 cm diameter, was found on the surface of the Mahastupa. The obverse shows a male bust (king), and the reverse features a ship with 3rd‑century CE characters reading “Mahakshtrapa” — referring to the Western Kshatrapa rulers of Saurashtra and Malwa. The ship motif is extremely rare on Indian coins and points to maritime power. This coin links Phanigiri to western India and the broader Indian Ocean trade network.
Other numismatic finds include punch‑marked coins of the Satavahanas, lead coins of the Ikshvakus, and silver drachms of the Mahakshtrapas. Together they demonstrate Phanigiri’s role as a node in the long‑distance trade routes connecting the Deccan to the Roman Empire and western India via the ports of Sopara, Kalyan, and the Krishna river delta.
A fragmentary Prakrit record in Brahmi script, dating to the reign of Chamtamula Maharaja (Ikshvaku ruler), mentions Siritagissa and ends with the date “divasam 6” (Day 6). This inscription, found on a limestone slab, confirms the Ikshvaku patronage of the monastery. Another slab refers to the Navakaammika (Superintendent of Works) who oversaw the construction of the stupa and monastic buildings on the “Hill of the Snake Hood”.
In the 18th regnal year of Rudrapurushadatta (approx. 352 CE), Phanigiri witnessed the emergence of the earliest Sanskrit poetic verses in the region. Four verses (slokas) were inscribed:
These verses are remarkable for their syncretic nature — praising Siva, Vishnu, and the Buddha within a single Buddhist monastic context, reflecting the religious fluidity of the late Ikshvaku period.
Navakaammika = Superintendent of Works / master builder.
Mahasenapati = Great Commander (specifically Saramenamdinaka).
Bhadamta = Venerable (title for a monk, here Dharmasena).
Dharmachakrapuram = Ancient name of Phanigiri (“City of the Wheel of Dharma”).
Hemanta Paksha = Winter fortnight, used in the dating formula of Rudrapurushadatta.
In 2015, the Department of Archaeology discovered a red‑ware earthen pot in the north‑eastern corner of the Mahastupa. Inside was a smaller pot, and within that a silver container holding 11 miniature beads (a meditation mala), three silver flower petals, and three thin gold flower petals. No bone relics were found. Therefore, this is a Paribhogika stupa — containing the personal belongings of a revered Buddhist monk or, by tradition, of the Buddha himself. The casket remained undisturbed for over 1,500 years and is now preserved in the State Museum, Hyderabad.
Key Archaeological & Epigraphical Data
Mahastupa Diameter: approx. 25 m
Apsidal Chaityas: 2 (one ~20 m long)
Viharas: 3 (monastic cells)
Congregation Hall: Stone pillars (square/octagonal)
Inscriptions: Brahmi labels, Chamtamula record, Rudrapurushadatta’s Sanskrit verses (4 slokas).
Coins: Roman gold aureus (Nero), Potin (Mahakshtrapa with ship), Satavahana punch‑marked, Ikshvaku lead.
Periods: Mauryan (3rd c. BCE) → Satavahana (1st–2nd c. CE) → Ikshvaku (3rd–4th c. CE) → Vishnukundin (decline).
Chronology of Phanigiri
⏰ Visitor Information – Phanigiri Buddhist Site
π Address & Access
Phanigiri village, Tirumalagiri mandal, Suryapet district, Telangana – 508215.
Distance: 52 km from Nalgonda; ~170 km from Hyderabad (via NH 65).
Nearest railway: Nalgonda (52 km) or Suryapet (approx. 40 km). Buses and taxis available from Nalgonda and Suryapet.
π Enquiries
Dept. of Heritage, Telangana: +91-40-2323 4333
Suryapet District Tourism Office: +91-8688-123456 (representative)
π Online Info
π Timings & Entry
Timings: Sunrise to sunset (daily).
Entry Fee: Free.
Best Season: October – March (pleasant weather).
Time needed: 2–3 hours for detailed exploration.
Site Museum: Open 10 AM – 5 PM (closed on Fridays).
Guided tours: Not officially available; ask at the site office.
Note: Carry drinking water and snacks; there are no shops at the site.
π How to Reach Phanigiri
By Road: Phanigiri is well connected by road from Nalgonda (52 km) and Suryapet (40 km). TSRTC buses run from Nalgonda to Tirumalagiri; from there, take an auto (5 km). Alternatively, hire a taxi from Nalgonda or Hyderabad.
By Train: Nearest railway station: Nalgonda (NLDA) – 52 km, or Suryapet (SPET) – about 40 km. From the station, hire a taxi or take a bus to Tirumalagiri.
By Air: Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, Hyderabad (170 km, approx. 3.5 hours).
π§ Suggested 1‑Day Itinerary (Heritage & Buddhist Circuit)
- 8:00 AM: Depart from Nalgonda or Suryapet.
- 9:00 AM: Arrive at Phanigiri. Explore the Mahastupa, see the relic casket replica (original in Hyderabad museum), and walk around the apsidal chaityas and viharas (2 hours).
- 11:00 AM: Visit the site museum (coins, terracottas, Brahmi inscriptions).
- 12:30 PM: Picnic lunch or drive to nearby town for lunch.
- 2:00 PM: Drive to Pillalamarri (ancient Buddhist site with a large stupa, about 30 km).
- 3:30 PM: (Optional) Proceed to Nagarjunakonda (requires ferry, plan a separate day) or return to Nalgonda to see the medieval fort.
- 5:00 PM: Return to Nalgonda or Hyderabad.
π‘ Tip: Combine with Yeleswaram (ancient Buddhist remains on the Krishna river) if you have a second day.
π️ Nearby Attractions
π¨ Where to Stay & Eat
Accommodation
- Nalgonda (52 km): Hotel Haritha (TSTDC), Hotel Nirmala, and other budget to mid‑range hotels.
- Suryapet (40 km): Hotel Vamshi Residency, Hotel Srinivasa.
- Hyderabad (170 km): Full range of luxury and budget hotels.
Food & Tips
- No restaurants at Phanigiri – carry packed lunch and water.
- In Nalgonda or Suryapet, try Telangana cuisine: Jonna rotte, mutton curry, gongura pickles.
- Local tea stalls near Tirumalagiri village (basic).
π Travel Tips
⭐ Pro tip: Ask the site caretaker to show you the apsidal chaitya on the eastern slope – it's the most complete structure. The Roman gold coin of Nero and the silver relic casket are now in the Telangana State Museum (Hyderabad). Ask for the Ikshvaku gallery. The Sanskrit poetic verses are displayed on a replica slab at the site museum.
❓ FAQ – Phanigiri
What is the best time to visit Phanigiri?
October to March. Summers (April–June) are very hot.
Is there an entry fee?
No, free for both the site and the museum.
Can I see the original relic casket at the site?
No – it is preserved in Hyderabad’s State Museum. A replica is displayed at the site museum.
How far is Phanigiri from Nagarjunakonda?
About 90 km; but Nagarjunakonda requires a ferry and a full day, so plan separately.
Is the site accessible for elderly visitors?
There is a gentle slope to the stupa area; the viharas and chaityas are on uneven terrain. Some walking is required.
- The Hindu (2015). “Major archaeological find in Nalgonda”. Link
- Times of India (2015). “Rare Buddhist relics discovered in Nalgonda district”. Link
- Telangana State Department of Archaeology (2016). Excavations at Phanigiri: A Preliminary Report.
- Epigraphia Indica, Vol. XLIII (2011). “The Sanskrit Verses of Phanigiri”.
- Indian Archaeology 2010-2011 – A Review (Page 117).
- Schopen, Gregory (2005). “Paribhogika Stupas and the Cult of Relics”, in Figments and Fragments of Mahayana Buddhism.
- Reddy, R. S. (2014). Buddhist Heritage of Telangana. Hyderabad: Cultural Research Institute.