A forgotten treasure in the Telangana forest. The rock‑cut cave temples of Adavi Somanapalli are among the most remote and least‑known heritage sites in Telangana. Hewn out of inferior rock, they have partially crumbled due to natural calamities, yet they retain extraordinary traces of painted murals from the 5th–6th century. The caves resemble the famous rock‑cut temples of Moghalrajpuram near Vijayawada, which were constructed by the Vishnukundin dynasty. Initially Jain shrines, they were later converted into Shivalayas (Lord Shiva temples) – a common pattern of religious adaptation in the Deccan. The site is locally called Nainag Gullu (possibly a corruption of “Nagna” or “Naina”), and only during Maha Shivaratri do hundreds of tribals and villagers gather here for worship.
The peril of whitewash: a heritage tragedy. In February 2018, during Shivaratri celebrations, the ancient rock art was whitewashed – a devastating loss. Fortunately, the State Archaeological Department stepped in and prepared a proposal to protect the indigenous art forms. The murals, though now mostly lost, once depicted scantily dressed men and women adorned with crowns, necklaces, leaf‑shaped earrings, heavy bracelets, and sacred threads. Dancers, courtesans, battle scenes, horse‑drawn chariots, archers, and palaces were also visible. The paintings’ style strongly reminisces of Ajanta in Maharashtra, making these caves a unique link between the eastern Deccan and the western cave tradition.
Vishnukundin Legacy and Ajanta‑Style Murals
The Vishnukundin dynasty (c. 5th–6th century CE) ruled parts of the Deccan and is known for rock‑cut cave temples, particularly at Moghalrajpuram (Vijayawada) and Undavalli. The Adavi Somanapalli caves share striking similarities – the ardhamandapa layout, pillar styles, and the conversion of Jain caves into Hindu shrines. The presence of murals is extraordinary, as rock‑cut cave paintings are rare in Telangana. The use of natural pigments – black, red, blue, and yellow – and the depiction of courtly life (archers, chariots, dancers) align with the Ajanta style, suggesting either a shared artistic tradition or even itinerant painters moving between the Western Ghats and the Eastern Deccan.
The Four Rock‑Cut Temples (Nainag Gullu)
Maha Shivaratri – The Only Time the Caves Come Alive
For most of the year, these caves are silent and deserted, visited only by the occasional heritage trekker or local goatherd. But on Maha Shivaratri, hundreds of tribals and villagers from surrounding areas gather here. They clean the caves, offer bilva leaves and water to the Shiva lingam (installed later), and perform night‑long prayers. Unfortunately, in 2018, well‑meaning devotees whitewashed the ancient murals – a tragic act of ignorance. Since then, the Archaeological Department has put up awareness boards and initiated conservation measures. If you visit during Shivaratri, you will witness raw tribal devotion mixed with the fading glory of 1,500‑year‑old art.
Nearby Places to Visit
Manthani (22 km): An ancient town on the Godavari, known as “Dakshina Kashi” with several Shiva temples and river ghats.
Ramagiri Fort (≈40 km): A hill fort with Jain and Hindu heritage.
Dharmapuri (≈50 km): Famous for the Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy temple and Godavari pushkar ghats.
Kaleshwaram (≈65 km): One of the twelve Jyotirlingas in Telangana, at the confluence of the Godavari and Pranahita rivers.
Bhupalapally town (≈35 km): District headquarters with historic temples.
Heritage & Trekking Itinerary (2 Days)
Day 1 – Drive & Trek to the Caves
- 6:00 AM: Start from Hyderabad or Warangal. Drive to Kataram–Manthani highway (approx. 200 km from Hyderabad, 4 hours).
- 10:00 AM: Reach Thadicherla village. Park your vehicle (arrange a local guide if possible).
- 10:30 AM: Begin the 4 km jungle trek to Adavi Somanapalli. Carry sufficient water and snacks (2–2.5 hours walk).
- 1:00 PM: Arrive at the caves. Explore all four cave temples, study the murals, inscriptions, and sculptures. Have a packed lunch.
- 3:00 PM: Spend time on the Manair river bank – enjoy the tranquil forest setting.
- 4:00 PM: Trek back to Thadicherla (2 hours). Drive to Manthani or Kaleshwaram for overnight stay.
Day 2 – Manthani Temples & Return
- 8:00 AM: Visit ancient Shiva temples in Manthani (Sahasra Linga, Kotilingala).
- 10:00 AM: Drive to Kaleshwaram Jyotirlinga (optional).
- 12:00 PM: Return towards Hyderabad, stopping for lunch en route.
- 6:00 PM: Arrive Hyderabad.
Visitor Information – Adavi Somanapalli Caves
Timings & Best Season
Access: The caves are always accessible (no gate), but the trek is best done in daylight – 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM is recommended.
Entry fee: Free.
Best season: October to February (cooler weather). Avoid monsoon (June–September) as the trek path becomes slippery and leech‑infested.
Festival visit: Maha Shivaratri (Feb/March) – a unique tribal fair, but be prepared for crowds and the sad reality of freshly whitewashed walls.
Location & Access
Base village: Thadicherla, Malhar Rao Mandal, Bhupalapally district, Telangana.
Coordinates: Approx 18.6°N, 79.9°E (search for “Adavi Somanapalli” or “Nainag Gullu”).
Road: From Kataram–Manthani highway, take the diversion at Thadicherla (4 km unpaved road before the trek starts).
Nearest town: Manthani (22 km) – has bus connectivity and basic hotels.
Parking: At Thadicherla village (safe).
Facilities, Trekking Tips & Conservation Status
Facilities (Very Basic)
- No restrooms, no drinking water, no shops – carry everything.
- No mobile phone signal at the caves (spotty near Thadicherla).
- No guide service; best to go with a local from Thadicherla.
- Accommodation only in Manthani or Kaleshwaram.
Conservation Challenges
2018 whitewashing incident: Devotees whitewashed the 1,500‑year‑old murals during Shivaratri, destroying most of the remaining paintings. The Archaeological Department intervened and has since prepared a conservation plan. However, the site is still not fully protected. Visitors today will see only faint traces of black, red, and yellow pigments on the ceilings. Do not touch the painted surfaces or attempt to clean them.
Essential Travel & Trekking Tips
📿 Insider tip: The best preserved paintings are on the ceiling of Cave 1. Use a torch to angle light across the rock – the pigments become visible under raking light. Look for the dancer with raised arms and a horse‑drawn chariot near the western edge. Also, the incomplete Telugu inscription in Cave 4 is rarely noticed; it is on the outer face of the left pillar of the ardhamandapa. If you visit during Maha Shivaratri, respectfully request the local pujari not to apply fresh whitewash – spread awareness instead.
A Remote Masterpiece Waiting for Recognition
The Rock Cut Cave Temples of Adavi Somanapalli are not for the casual tourist. They demand a 4 km trek, a sense of adventure, and a deep appreciation for ancient art in a fragile state. Yet for those who make the journey, the reward is extraordinary – a direct, unmediated encounter with 5th–6th century painting and sculpture, set in a pristine forest on the banks of the Manair River. The 2018 whitewashing tragedy serves as a stark reminder of how easily heritage can be lost. Visit these caves, document them, and help spread the word so that Nainag Gullu receives the protection it deserves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are the caves safe to visit?
Yes, physically safe, but remote. The rock is fragile – do not climb on loose sections. Carry a first‑aid kit.
Is there any entry fee?
No, entry is free.
Can I see the murals clearly?
They are very faint. A strong flashlight and careful observation are needed. Most paintings were destroyed by whitewash in 2018.
Do I need a guide?
Strongly recommended – the trek path is not signposted. Ask at Thadicherla village.
Is the site under ASI protection?
It is under the Telangana State Archaeology Department. A conservation proposal was made in 2018, but active protection is limited.
Can we stay overnight at the caves?
Not advisable – no facilities and wild animals (leopards, bears) are present. Stay in Manthani.
When is the best time to visit?
November to February. Avoid summer (April–June) and monsoon.
References & Further Reading
- The Hans India – Precious murals languish in neglect (Feb 7, 2019)
- Times of India – 9th century rock art on temple whitewashed (Feb 25, 2018)
- Wikipedia – Vishnukundin dynasty
- Telangana Tourism – Offbeat destinations