The Telia Rumal is a unique double ikat textile from the village of Puttapaka in the Nalgonda district of Telangana, India. It is characterized by an elaborate pre-dyeing treatment of the yarn with castor ash, sesame oil, and sheep dung to enhance color retention, moisture-holding, and impart a distinct oily quality and scent. The name literally translates to "oiled/oily kerchief."
The craft, which originated in Chirala, Andhra Pradesh, was primarily developed due to high demand from Arabic markets. Master weaver Gajam Govardhana and his family are credited with keeping the Telia Rumal tradition alive, expanding the product range from small kerchiefs to saris, dupattas, and dress materials.
Its distinctiveness, however, lies in the specialized 21-day yarn preparation process:
The yarn is treated with castor ash, sesame oil, and sheep dung.
This treatment gives the fabric a characteristic oily feel and a gingelly oil scent.
The well-oiled threads retain moisture and help achieve longer color retention.
It spread to the Nalgonda District due to high demand from Arabic markets.
The village of Puttapaka secured a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2015 for the textile.
Region/Group Product Purpose/SignificanceMiddle East/Arabian Lands Keffiyehs or turbans The oil protects the skin from dryness in the desert climate, and the turban keeps the head warm in winters. The slight oil content also helps keep the fabric cool.
India (Fishermen) Lungi (loin cloth) The oily cloth repelled water. It was also believed the red color and oily fragrance attracted fish.
India (Nizams/Zamindars) Turbans Served as a symbol of power and wealth.
Lovers Handkerchiefs Used as gifts for lovers.
Gajam Govardhana (born 1949) is an Indian master weaver and a central figure in the survival and revival of the Telia Rumal tradition.
He expanded the product line from traditional kerchiefs and turbans to modern items like saris, dupattas, dress materials, carpets, and wall hangings, breathing life into a "dying dyeing style."
He has showcased his work globally, notably creating a large cotton spread (81 inches by 71 inches) for the 1983 Festival of India that traveled the world, creating a global buzz for the fabric.
The Government of India honored him with the Padma Shri award in 2011 for his work.
He established a small museum in Hyderabad to showcase the craft, featuring weaves, a library of fabric traditions, and a small loom.
The craft, which originated in Chirala, Andhra Pradesh, was primarily developed due to high demand from Arabic markets. Master weaver Gajam Govardhana and his family are credited with keeping the Telia Rumal tradition alive, expanding the product range from small kerchiefs to saris, dupattas, and dress materials.
🧵 Key Characteristics and Technique
Double Ikat and Yarn Treatment
The Telia Rumal is essentially a double ikat weave, a rare and highly skilled technique where both the warp and the weft yarns are tied (resist-dyed) and then woven to create the pattern.Its distinctiveness, however, lies in the specialized 21-day yarn preparation process:
The yarn is treated with castor ash, sesame oil, and sheep dung.
This treatment gives the fabric a characteristic oily feel and a gingelly oil scent.
The well-oiled threads retain moisture and help achieve longer color retention.
Patterns
Earlier patterns were strictly geometric or vegetal to suit the preference of Arabic patrons. After the 1930s, craftsmen started incorporating figurative elements such as lions, elephants, birds, clocks, and even aeroplanes, which demanded even higher weaving precision.🌍 History and Usage
Origin and Geographical Indication
The style developed in Chirala, on the coast of Andhra Pradesh, with the earliest pieces recorded in the 1800s.It spread to the Nalgonda District due to high demand from Arabic markets.
The village of Puttapaka secured a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2015 for the textile.
Traditional Uses
The unique properties of the Telia Rumal made it valuable in various contexts:Region/Group Product Purpose/SignificanceMiddle East/Arabian Lands Keffiyehs or turbans The oil protects the skin from dryness in the desert climate, and the turban keeps the head warm in winters. The slight oil content also helps keep the fabric cool.
India (Fishermen) Lungi (loin cloth) The oily cloth repelled water. It was also believed the red color and oily fragrance attracted fish.
India (Nizams/Zamindars) Turbans Served as a symbol of power and wealth.
Lovers Handkerchiefs Used as gifts for lovers.
🧑🎨 Gajam Govardhana: The Master Weaver
Gajam Govardhana (born 1949) is an Indian master weaver and a central figure in the survival and revival of the Telia Rumal tradition.
Contributions
He heads the Padmashali family which has been creating Telia Rumals for nearly 100 years and employs 500 weavers in Telangana.He expanded the product line from traditional kerchiefs and turbans to modern items like saris, dupattas, dress materials, carpets, and wall hangings, breathing life into a "dying dyeing style."
He has showcased his work globally, notably creating a large cotton spread (81 inches by 71 inches) for the 1983 Festival of India that traveled the world, creating a global buzz for the fabric.
The Government of India honored him with the Padma Shri award in 2011 for his work.
He established a small museum in Hyderabad to showcase the craft, featuring weaves, a library of fabric traditions, and a small loom.
Apart from Telia Rumal design Puttapaka weavers makes Ikkat patola design, Navarantan designs and more. https://jrshandlooms.com/
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