Warangal Durries are a celebrated craft from the Deccan region of India, with a tradition tracing back to the Mughal era. These geometric-patterned rugs are a hallmark of the country's rich handloom practice and are highly sought after in both national and international markets. The craft is centered in Warangal, Telangana, and was officially granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in March 2018, protecting its unique identity. Despite their renown and the skill of the artisans, the industry faces challenges related to branding, marketing, and ensuring the craft's continuation.
Designs: Characterized by geometric, angular motifs and coloured horizontal stripes. More recently, the range has been extended by adapting techniques like screen printing and Kalamkari prints.
Colours and Materials: Durries are traditionally made using vegetable colours. The colour palette is distinct, often using reds and blues in combination with neutral colours. They are primarily woven in cotton, with some variations in jute and wool for export and home markets.
Weave Type: The designs include flat weaves with raised or extra weft patterns.
Pit Loom: This is operated by a pedal and hand, requiring a pit to be dug in the ground to house the pedals. The shuttle is moved manually.
Frame Loom: Similar to the pit loom with a pedal, but does not require a pit. The shuttle is moved via a mechanical pulling mechanism.
Power Loom: Although available, the primary durries are made on the traditional pit and frame looms.
Gender Roles: The pit loom is operated only by men, but women carry out all other activities with efficiency, from spinning the yarn to operating the frame loom.
Work Environment: Weaving is a year-round job, with holidays taken only on Eid and Amavasya. Weavers rely heavily on natural light, as workplaces often lack modern lighting and ventilation. Cleanliness is a major concern due to cotton fibres accumulating.
Organization: Weavers are organized either in cooperatives or work independently.
Wages and Risk: Weavers continue to work at minimal wages, as weaving is the only skill they were taught. The art is at risk of continuation and requires protection.
Market Exposure: Weavers often rely on government purchases and are not fully exposed to market demands, which leads to a lack of self-branding and promotions to properly market their unique products.
E-commerce Initiative: A major step toward global access was a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) signed between Amazon and the Telangana Department of Handlooms and Textiles, enabling weavers to sell their products to the world via the e-commerce platform.
Career: He began weaving at the age of 11 and became a master weaver, later receiving training in advanced techniques.
Award-Winning Design: His celebrated durry depicted a Mughal-era hunting scene from a London museum painting. He used special yarn and dyes, calling the design "antique and complicated."
Impact: Ramulu believes the award will help the local industry flourish, provide free entry to national and international exhibitions, and secure a better market for Warangal durries. His products are now sold on Amazon.
Overall, Warangal durries stand as a testament to enduring traditional craftsmanship, celebrated worldwide but requiring continued support and market integration to ensure its survival for future generations.
Warangal durries by Sanjoli Arora
http://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/Commoner/2016-07-11/The-durrie-that-brought-acclaim-to-Warangal-weavers/241199
https://www.thenewsminute.com/article/warangal-durries-available-world-weavers-sell-their-products-amazon-69724
https://chaibisket.com/andhra-pradesh-telangana-arts-and-crafts/
The Craft and Its Heritage
History and Significance
The tradition of durry-making in Warangal dates back to the Mughal army's arrival in the Deccan region. Artists and craftsmen accompanying the army began making carpets, and the local population soon adopted it as a source of income, passing the skill down through generations. Today, it remains a highly labour-intensive, rural-based cottage industry. Warangal's rise as a weaving hub was supported by the local availability of cotton, which ensured a consistent supply of raw material.Unique Characteristics and Designs
Warangal durries are famous for their distinctive aesthetic:Designs: Characterized by geometric, angular motifs and coloured horizontal stripes. More recently, the range has been extended by adapting techniques like screen printing and Kalamkari prints.
Colours and Materials: Durries are traditionally made using vegetable colours. The colour palette is distinct, often using reds and blues in combination with neutral colours. They are primarily woven in cotton, with some variations in jute and wool for export and home markets.
Weave Type: The designs include flat weaves with raised or extra weft patterns.
Traditional Techniques and Looms
Durry weaving in Warangal is one of the few crafts still done entirely by hand, with weavers eschewing the use of power looms. Weavers utilize three main types of looms:Pit Loom: This is operated by a pedal and hand, requiring a pit to be dug in the ground to house the pedals. The shuttle is moved manually.
Frame Loom: Similar to the pit loom with a pedal, but does not require a pit. The shuttle is moved via a mechanical pulling mechanism.
Power Loom: Although available, the primary durries are made on the traditional pit and frame looms.
The Weavers and The Industry
Community and Labor
The craft is a family-oriented process where both men and women are active members.Gender Roles: The pit loom is operated only by men, but women carry out all other activities with efficiency, from spinning the yarn to operating the frame loom.
Work Environment: Weaving is a year-round job, with holidays taken only on Eid and Amavasya. Weavers rely heavily on natural light, as workplaces often lack modern lighting and ventilation. Cleanliness is a major concern due to cotton fibres accumulating.
Organization: Weavers are organized either in cooperatives or work independently.
Economic Challenges and Market Access
Despite their high-quality products and international popularity (80% of handwoven durries sold in European and American markets are woven in India), the industry faces significant hurdles:Wages and Risk: Weavers continue to work at minimal wages, as weaving is the only skill they were taught. The art is at risk of continuation and requires protection.
Market Exposure: Weavers often rely on government purchases and are not fully exposed to market demands, which leads to a lack of self-branding and promotions to properly market their unique products.
E-commerce Initiative: A major step toward global access was a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) signed between Amazon and the Telangana Department of Handlooms and Textiles, enabling weavers to sell their products to the world via the e-commerce platform.
National Recognition and Future Outlook
Pitta Ramulu: National Award Winner
The skills of Warangal weavers received national recognition when Pitta Ramulu was the first weaver from the 100-year-old industry to win the National Handloom Award for 2015.Career: He began weaving at the age of 11 and became a master weaver, later receiving training in advanced techniques.
Award-Winning Design: His celebrated durry depicted a Mughal-era hunting scene from a London museum painting. He used special yarn and dyes, calling the design "antique and complicated."
Impact: Ramulu believes the award will help the local industry flourish, provide free entry to national and international exhibitions, and secure a better market for Warangal durries. His products are now sold on Amazon.
The GI Tag
The craft was granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in March 2018. This legal recognition ensures that the name "Warangal Durries" is unique to the product manufactured in that geographical area, with any violation being a punishable offence.Overall, Warangal durries stand as a testament to enduring traditional craftsmanship, celebrated worldwide but requiring continued support and market integration to ensure its survival for future generations.
https://issuu.com/sanjoli_10/docs/warangal_durries
http://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/Commoner/2016-07-11/The-durrie-that-brought-acclaim-to-Warangal-weavers/241199
https://www.thenewsminute.com/article/warangal-durries-available-world-weavers-sell-their-products-amazon-69724
https://chaibisket.com/andhra-pradesh-telangana-arts-and-crafts/